Just returned, back home to the USA, after a one month swing through France (Paris and Amboise) and Northern Spain. I got to live the life of a bourgeoisie, as they call the middle classes in France, staying at hotels and eating fabulous meals in restaurants and tapas bars. I observed a few things in my travels with my friend, and came to a few conclusions. Or let's just call them observations:
* The summer sun goes down late in Europe-- around 10:00 PM.
* The French kings built beautiful castles for their wive and mistresses-- euphemistically called chateaus. Chateau is an understatement. These amazing structures- fortified with moats and thick walls and are truly regal. We saw a few, Chenonceau and Loches. Chenoncea has an amazing history and extends across the entire width of the river Cher. Loches has the feel of the Middle Ages and rises high above the surrounding Loire Valley countryside.
* The Parisian women have great style. So many beautiful women!
* The temperature in Amboise was very comfortable and the city has great charm. The walled streets of the city come right up to the lanes and streets winding through the town. You get transported back in time.
* At the L'Alliance restaurant I had "panna cotta", a cream dessert,with blackberries and other fruits. The flavor of panna cotta verged on a religious experience for me-- maybe the best sweet food of my lifetime.
* In Spain, we started out in Barcelona. I made a good decision to join in with a tour group for the La Sagrada Familia cathedral, the life work on Antoni Gaudi-- and wrote a blog entry about the power of that experience. Gaudi is up for a sainthood, I've read.
* Our favorite hangout in Barcelona, Chicha Limona restaurant was recommended by Jose, our VRBO landlord. We became regulars and got to know the wait staff in their black-and-white checked shirts. A shout-out here to Pilar, Tomas, Julia, and Lluis-- some of the employees who treated us so well.
* Santiago de Compostela also transports you back in time. The pilgrims completing the "Camino", the walk that begins in France and crosses north Spain to the cathedral and burial place of St. James, add a strong theme to the city's identity. We loved the Costa Vella Hotel, recommended by Rick Steven, and its shaded jardin in the back. Another city of endless winding lanes with stone walled houses and apartments lining the street.
* The Mama Peixas (mother fish) restaurant in Santiago is a standout. Spanish food and especially seafood is a standout.
* Check out a town called Comillas and the north Atlantic. Spanish tourists go there, a good sign, and they have an early Gaudi building called "Capricho". Capricho is covered with sunflower tiles. And we got to see actual sunflower fields in France-- where the flowers actually pivot to follow the sun.
* The amazing city of San Sebastian features a surf beach with golden sand. The sand somehow matches the gold tones of the walls of the buildings. I loved the pounding surf, too powerful for the surf school kids to enter very far into the ocean that day.
* The Spanish women are also beautiful.
* And I had my very own Girl from Impanema experience at La Playa de San Sebastian. The surfer beach in San Sebastian is where we encountered "la sirena", the mermaid. The mermaid was dark-haired with brown skin and might even have been South American. She wore a black wetsuit with a raya azul and had swim fins. The wetsuit fit her body like a glove. Wetsuits fit everybody like a glove-- but the glove surrounding her body was exceptional. I asked her if it was a dangerous day for body surfing. "Peligro, no?" I asked. She shrugged her shoulders and smiled with playful eyes. She seemed to to say... it goes with the territory. But her territory is actually water. No surf is too dangerous for La Sirena.
My last observation concerns European travel, especially for the American middle classes, and the impact of a guy named Rick Steves. We had Rick Steve's books for France and for Spain. Rick, it turns out, is a Lutheran from Edmonds, Washington. Somehow his passion for travel led him to become the guru of all European travelers, at least American travelers with a little bit of money. I know there more hippie style of travel from youth. Reed and I got in many conversations with fellow Americans. Usually we would be in fabulous restaurants in between beautiful entrees or tapas courses-- and the topic of Rich Steves, the traveler writer and TV travel host, would invariably come up. Rick has become the patron saint of the well-heeled traveler. I got to experience that lifestyle for a month and let's just say... it ain't bad.
Showing posts with label Gaudi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gaudi. Show all posts
Thursday, July 6, 2017
Sunday, June 18, 2017
Barcelona: Gaudi's Vision provides a break from Gargoyles
Certainly the world is going through a terrible moment. Janine Marchessault, a brilliant writer and Marshall McLuhan expert, explains the paradox of the electronic environment as revealed in McLuhan's The Gutenberg Galaxy:
In "The Gutenberg Galaxy" electric culture emerges from the literate world as a mutation transforming everyday attitudes and institutions into those grotesque gargoyles... Gargoyles represent the grotesque imagination, which is capable of illuminating the present and accessing the unconscious of a culture. Hence all the 'talk', Internet chatting, cellphones, email communication, is precisely this 'outering' of inner thoughts. Indeed 'illumination' and 'anxiety' are the key effects of this new age. Because all that is hidden is shared, illumination begets 'Anxiety'.
("Marshall McLuhan", by Jane Marchessault, p. 149-- Sage Publications, 2005)
I'm enjoying majestic Barcelona, the city of tapas and Gaudi artwork. I catch nothing of the conversation on the street and watch no TV. Still I hear the world's and America's incessant pain and clamor. Our gargoyle have been unleashed, just like the figures atop Norte Dame. McLuhan, the convert to Catholicism, made much of the invention of the printing press in 1450. He tells us of the psychic toll created by books and the rise of literacy in the Western world. McLuhan warns the digital age creates a similar trauma-- and we are in the midst of it. The gargoyles have been unleashed.
But back to Gaudi and La Sagrada Familia, his magnificent ode to nature built in stone and light, a work motivated by his Catholic religious faith and passion for art, creativity and architecture. La Sagrada Familia has the grandeur of a Middle Ages edifice but it is a 20th century product! We can only explain Gaudi's genius as other-worlds. The spindly spires enchant from the outside somehow more graceful, flexible, thin and kinetic than tall columns into the sky can normally achieve. I heard somebody say "it's like a forest inside." I could not imagine what they meant.
The magic of La Sagrada Familia continues as one enters the basilica. Not sure "basilica" is correct term? We are inside the massive church. Gaudi conveys nature inside by crating columns like towering tree limbs reaching to the top of the building. Like trees, the interior columns show knobs, are guide Josep called them "knots." Gaudi used extremely strong material and ingeniously figured the greatest load-bearing positions in the columns. The building rises upward without the need for buttresses, no signs of flying butress support structure like Notre Dame. This allow the feeling of a natural, organic world and the flood of colored light passing through stain glass window completes the effect.
Perhaps, as McLuhan states, the artist provides us a bridge into the future. Gaudi, a 20th century master, brings us to our tactile future, full of sensory richness, the crazy world of social media and open, sometimes frightening expression? Gaudi's playful, improvisatory houses and apartment buildings are known for their whimsy and fun. With La Sagrada Familia he chooses a normally sober setting and depicts the life of Jesus Christ while offering the life energy of his other works.
La Sagrada Familia was our first stop in Barcelona. You might want to the same. The gargoyles of modern life, racing across the social network, fade into the background as Antoni Gaudi takes you to higher ground.
In "The Gutenberg Galaxy" electric culture emerges from the literate world as a mutation transforming everyday attitudes and institutions into those grotesque gargoyles... Gargoyles represent the grotesque imagination, which is capable of illuminating the present and accessing the unconscious of a culture. Hence all the 'talk', Internet chatting, cellphones, email communication, is precisely this 'outering' of inner thoughts. Indeed 'illumination' and 'anxiety' are the key effects of this new age. Because all that is hidden is shared, illumination begets 'Anxiety'.
("Marshall McLuhan", by Jane Marchessault, p. 149-- Sage Publications, 2005)
I'm enjoying majestic Barcelona, the city of tapas and Gaudi artwork. I catch nothing of the conversation on the street and watch no TV. Still I hear the world's and America's incessant pain and clamor. Our gargoyle have been unleashed, just like the figures atop Norte Dame. McLuhan, the convert to Catholicism, made much of the invention of the printing press in 1450. He tells us of the psychic toll created by books and the rise of literacy in the Western world. McLuhan warns the digital age creates a similar trauma-- and we are in the midst of it. The gargoyles have been unleashed.
But back to Gaudi and La Sagrada Familia, his magnificent ode to nature built in stone and light, a work motivated by his Catholic religious faith and passion for art, creativity and architecture. La Sagrada Familia has the grandeur of a Middle Ages edifice but it is a 20th century product! We can only explain Gaudi's genius as other-worlds. The spindly spires enchant from the outside somehow more graceful, flexible, thin and kinetic than tall columns into the sky can normally achieve. I heard somebody say "it's like a forest inside." I could not imagine what they meant.
The magic of La Sagrada Familia continues as one enters the basilica. Not sure "basilica" is correct term? We are inside the massive church. Gaudi conveys nature inside by crating columns like towering tree limbs reaching to the top of the building. Like trees, the interior columns show knobs, are guide Josep called them "knots." Gaudi used extremely strong material and ingeniously figured the greatest load-bearing positions in the columns. The building rises upward without the need for buttresses, no signs of flying butress support structure like Notre Dame. This allow the feeling of a natural, organic world and the flood of colored light passing through stain glass window completes the effect.
Perhaps, as McLuhan states, the artist provides us a bridge into the future. Gaudi, a 20th century master, brings us to our tactile future, full of sensory richness, the crazy world of social media and open, sometimes frightening expression? Gaudi's playful, improvisatory houses and apartment buildings are known for their whimsy and fun. With La Sagrada Familia he chooses a normally sober setting and depicts the life of Jesus Christ while offering the life energy of his other works.
La Sagrada Familia was our first stop in Barcelona. You might want to the same. The gargoyles of modern life, racing across the social network, fade into the background as Antoni Gaudi takes you to higher ground.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)